UpgradeMacBookProHardDrive

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* Tray to receive screws * Tray to receive screws
** You don't want to loose any! Group them in the order you remove them. This will make it a lot easier to re-install them in reverse order. ** You don't want to loose any! Group them in the order you remove them. This will make it a lot easier to re-install them in reverse order.
 +** Sticky surfaces help; try using double-sided tape
* A steady hand. * A steady hand.
* Patience. * Patience.
Line 54: Line 55:
** Pen or pencil to mark up your copy if/when you encounter differences. Watch for things like different screw counts, types of screws used, etc. ** Pen or pencil to mark up your copy if/when you encounter differences. Watch for things like different screw counts, types of screws used, etc.
-==Hack Procedure==+==Hack Procedure (Pictures Example)==
-# Preparation+===Preparation===
-## Clear your space.+[http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470939928/in/set-72157602227299614/ The Doctor Is In]
-## Set out your tools+# Clear your space.
-## Set out your screw management system+# Set out your tools
-## Get your digital camera ready+# Set out your screw management system
-## Have your Installation DVD at the ready+# Get your digital camera ready
-# Disassembly+# Have your Installation DVD at the ready
-## Remove the battery [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470086355/in/set-72157602227299614/]+ 
-## Remove the RAM [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470946632/in/set-72157602227299614/]+===Disassembly===
-## Remove Bottom Screws+# Remove the battery [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470086355/in/set-72157602227299614/]
-### Remove the Torx screws in the RAM compartment and the Phillips screws on the bottom [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470092341/in/set-72157602227299614/]+# Remove the RAM [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470946632/in/set-72157602227299614/]
-### Remove the angled Phillips screws from the battery compartment [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470101125/in/set-72157602227299614/]+# Remove Bottom Screws
-## Remove Edge Screws+## Remove the Torx screws in the RAM compartment and the Phillips screws on the bottom [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470092341/in/set-72157602227299614/]
-### Remove the Phillips screws from both sides [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470105573/in/set-72157602227299614/ DVI Side] and [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470110529/in/set-72157602227299614/ Power Socket Side]+## Remove the angled Phillips screws from the battery compartment [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470101125/in/set-72157602227299614/]
-### From the rear, remove the Phillips screws at each side of the LCD hinge. [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470971536/in/set-72157602227299614/ One Side] and [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470972360/in/set-72157602227299614/ Other Side]+# Remove Edge Screws
-## Flip the machine right-side up, open the LCD and '''carefully''' pry off the top keyboard module from around the edges.+## Remove the Phillips screws from both the DVI side [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470105573/in/set-72157602227299614/] and the Power Socket side [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470110529/in/set-72157602227299614/]
-##* Should look something like [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470115383/in/set-72157602227299614/ this]. Note the ribbon connector between the keyboard and the motherboard [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470062187/in/set-72157602227299614/]+## From the rear, remove the Phillips screws at each side of the LCD hinge. See [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470971536/in/set-72157602227299614/] and [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470972360/in/set-72157602227299614/]
-## Separate the [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470117093/in/set-72157602227299614/ ribbon connector] from the [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470118109/in/set-72157602227299614/ motherboard socket]+# Flip the machine right-side up, open the LCD and '''carefully''' pry off the top keyboard module from around the edges.
-##* This is one of those parts that, at assembly time, you want to press it firmly back in place but not too hard or you risk cracking the motherboard.+#* Should look something like this [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470115383/in/set-72157602227299614/]. Note the ribbon connector between the keyboard and the motherboard [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470062187/in/set-72157602227299614/]
-## Locate the [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470124161/in/set-72157602227299614/ hard drive] and take note of how the cables are routed and taped in place.+# Separate the ribbon connector [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470117093/in/set-72157602227299614/] from the motherboard socket [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470118109/in/set-72157602227299614/]
-### Slide out and un-tape the Bluetooth module next to the hard drive [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470982960/in/set-72157602227299614/]+#* This is one of those parts that, at assembly time, you want to press it firmly back in place but not too hard or you risk cracking the motherboard.
-### Unscrew and remove the inner retaining bracket over the hard drive [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470985342/in/set-72157602227299614/]+# Locate the hard drive [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470124161/in/set-72157602227299614/] and take note (and pictures) of how the cables are routed and taped in place.
-### Gently lift the hard drive out, then un-tape (possibly [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470936030/in/set-72157602227299614/ both sides]) and detach the SATA connector [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470079441/in/set-72157602227299614/]+## Slide out and un-tape the Bluetooth module next to the hard drive [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470982960/in/set-72157602227299614/]
-# Prepare the new drive+## Unscrew and remove the inner retaining bracket over the hard drive [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470985342/in/set-72157602227299614/]
-## Knobs on the lifting edge [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470131355/in/set-72157602227299614/]+## Gently lift the hard drive out, then un-tape (possibly both sides [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470936030/in/set-72157602227299614/]) and detach the SATA connector [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470079441/in/set-72157602227299614/]
-## Knobs on the hinge edge [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470132023/in/set-72157602227299614/]+===Prepare the new drive===
-## Swap the knobs from the old drive to the new [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470133873/in/set-72157602227299614/]+# Note the knobs on the lifting edge [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470131355/in/set-72157602227299614/] rubber
-# Reassembly+# Note the knobs on the hinge edge [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470132023/in/set-72157602227299614/] are metal
-## Attach the new drive to the SATA connector, reapply the tape and insert [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470134733/in/set-72157602227299614/]+# Swap the knobs from the old drive to the new [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470133873/in/set-72157602227299614/]
-## Attach the drive retaining bracket [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470993288/in/set-72157602227299614/]+===Reassembly===
-## Insert the bluetooth module and reapply the tape [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470994186/in/set-72157602227299614/]+# Attach the new drive to the SATA connector, reapply the tape and insert [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470134733/in/set-72157602227299614/]
-## Re-attach the keyboard ribbon cable to the motherboard [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470115383/in/set-72157602227299614/] and carefully close up the top.+# Attach the drive retaining bracket [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470993288/in/set-72157602227299614/]
-## Reverse the order in which you removed screws.+# Insert the bluetooth module and reapply the tape [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470994186/in/set-72157602227299614/]
-### Rear of the LCD hinge+# Re-attach the keyboard ribbon cable to the motherboard [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470115383/in/set-72157602227299614/] and carefully close up the top.
-### Edge screws+# Reverse the order in which you removed screws.
-### Battery compartment screws+## Rear of the LCD hinge
-### Screws inside RAM compartment+## Edge screws
-###* '''Note:''' When you re-insert the RAM, make sure they are pushed in all the way with none of gold pins showing. [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470143265/in/set-72157602227299614/ Here] is an example of how not to do it; your machine probably won't power on like this.+## Battery compartment screws
-### Screws closing RAM compartment and remaining bottom screws+## Screws inside RAM compartment
-### Re-insert battery.+##* '''Note:''' When you re-insert the RAM, make sure they are pushed in all the way with none of gold pins showing. Here is an example of how not to do it [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470143265/in/set-72157602227299614/]; your machine probably won't power on like this.
-# Power up your system+## Screws closing RAM compartment and remaining bottom screws
-## If it doesn't turn on, check that you inserted the RAM properly.+## Re-insert battery.
-## Other things to check include the keyboard connector (you didn't flip the cable around, did you?) and the hard drive's SATA connector (pushed in all the way?).+===Power up your system===
-## If all else fails, remove the new drive, re-insert the old drive and confirm that it still works.+# If it doesn't turn on, check that you inserted the RAM properly.
-##* If the old drive has a 1.5Gb/s SATA interface, check to see that the new drive is configured in 1.5Gb/s interface mode, not a newer 3.0Gb/s interface mode. See the detailed specifications for both drives at the manufacturer(s) website(s) for more information.+#* Other things to check include the keyboard connector (you didn't flip the cable around, did you?) and the hard drive's SATA connector (pushed in all the way?).
 +# If all else fails, remove the new drive, re-insert the old drive and confirm that it still works.
 +#* If the old drive has a 1.5Gb/s SATA interface, check to see that the new drive is configured in 1.5Gb/s interface mode, not a newer 3.0Gb/s interface mode. See the detailed specifications for both drives at the manufacturer(s) website(s) for more information.
# Install from Mac OS X DVD # Install from Mac OS X DVD
# Keep your old drive in a safe place # Keep your old drive in a safe place
Line 111: Line 114:
==Alternatives== ==Alternatives==
-# Make an identical, bootable copy of your current system on the new drive. Then perform the drive transplant+# Make an identical, bootable copy of your current system on the new drive. [http://www.flickr.com/photos/aplumb/1470913488/in/set-72157602227299614/] Then perform the drive transplant.
#* I used SuperDuper! (See [http://lifehacker.com/software/step-by-step/mirror-your-mac-on-a-bootable-external-drive-300384.php LifeHacker Example]) #* I used SuperDuper! (See [http://lifehacker.com/software/step-by-step/mirror-your-mac-on-a-bootable-external-drive-300384.php LifeHacker Example])
#* I opted for speed and used the power adaptor from a [http://www.vantecusa.com/product-accessory.html Vantec CB-ISATAU2], a SATA-to-eSATA cable and a [http://siig.com/ViewProduct.aspx?pn=SC-SAEE12-S1 SIIG eSATA II 2-Port ExpressCard-M] to power and transfer data. I probably could have used the CB-ISATAU2 by itself (data transfer via USB 2.0). #* I opted for speed and used the power adaptor from a [http://www.vantecusa.com/product-accessory.html Vantec CB-ISATAU2], a SATA-to-eSATA cable and a [http://siig.com/ViewProduct.aspx?pn=SC-SAEE12-S1 SIIG eSATA II 2-Port ExpressCard-M] to power and transfer data. I probably could have used the CB-ISATAU2 by itself (data transfer via USB 2.0).
 +#** If you can find one, a 2.5" SATA-to-Firewire bridge will allow you to boot directly off "the other" drive to confirm that the new image works and/or that the old drive still works after the transplant. Hold down the '''option''' key while turning on the machine to select the external Firewire drive as the boot device.
#* Remember to change the new drive's name back to the old system's name or you may find many of your applications won't be able to find all their parts. #* Remember to change the new drive's name back to the old system's name or you may find many of your applications won't be able to find all their parts.
# Replace the DVD drive with something more current. # Replace the DVD drive with something more current.
# Transplant your whole machine into a new Steampunk-inspired case. # Transplant your whole machine into a new Steampunk-inspired case.
- 
-=Scratch Pad= 
- 
-==Preparation== 
- 
-Measure twice; cut once. 
- 
-===Get Current System Specifications=== 
- 
-* Which make/model of hard-drive is currently in your system? 
-** Apple - About This Mac - More Info 
-** Hardware - Serial ATA 
-*** Look up the model at the manufacturers web site. 
-**** What are the physical dimensions? Don't want a replacement drive that's too thick. 
-**** What are the interface specs?  
- 
-* Depending on your performance and capacity needs, choose a new drive of the same interface type - Serial ATA. 
- 
-===Tools You Will Need=== 
- 
-* Screw drivers 
-** Phillips ''00'' and/or ''000'' size 
-** Torx ''T6'' size 
-* Digital Camera 
-** Take lots of pictures, every step of the way. 
-* Tray to receive screws 
-** You don't want to loose any! Group them in the order you remove them. This will make it a lot easier to re-install them in reverse order. 
- 
-==Create the New Drive Image== 
- 
-===Make the Image=== 
- 
-* Make an identical, bootable copy of your current system on the new drive 
-** I used SuperDuper! (See [http://lifehacker.com/software/step-by-step/mirror-your-mac-on-a-bootable-external-drive-300384.php LifeHacker Example]) 
-** I opted for speed and used the power adaptor from a [http://www.vantecusa.com/product-accessory.html Vantec CB-ISATAU2], a SATA-to-eSATA cable and a [http://siig.com/ViewProduct.aspx?pn=SC-SAEE12-S1 SIIG eSATA II 2-Port ExpressCard-M] to power and transfer data. I probably could have used the CB-ISATAU2 by itself (data transfer via USB 2.0). 
- 
-===Verify Image Bootable (optional)=== 
- 
-* (optional) Verify that the new drive is bootable using a FireWire-to-SATA interface. 
-** Power off your computer 
-** Plug in the FireWire drive 
-** Hold down the '''option''' key and press the Power button. When presented with the option to boot from the internal or external drives, select the external. 
- 
-* '''Note 1:''' Don't be tempted to play too much with the imaged drive yet. As the final step, you'll need to rename the new transplanted drive or some applications won't work properly. 
- 
-==Perform the Transplant== 
- 
-It's not brain surgery, but given the size and compactness of parts (relative to a more familiar desktop system), resist the temptation to force anything. 
-* If a screw doesn't slide in easily, back it out and try again and/or make sure you have picked the correct screw. 
-* Don't be sloppy with your screw extraction technique. If the screw driver seems to have too much wiggle room in a screw's head, try a size larger or smaller tip size. Press down firmly enough that the driver doesn't pop out but not so much that boards bend; it's the twist that moves the screw, not the press. 
-* Keep track of all your parts and disassembly order 
-** I took pictures for each new row of screws, and kept them in order on a piece of paper. 
-* Use a clean surface - grit will scratch your MBPro very easily. 
-* Static electricity is your enemy. If you don't have a ready anti-static surface to work on, gather together all the anti-static bags and pieces of anti-static foam you have (hard drives and memory cards often ship in them) and use those. 
- 
-==Re-assemble Your System== 
- 
-* Put everything back together in the reverse order. 
-** When in doubt, look at the photos you took along the way. They are automagically in forward order, so note where you are in assembling, find the same location in your pictures and zoom in. 
- 
-* Unless you really need it for something, put your original drive aside in a safe place. If something is wrong with your new drive the problem will usual manifest in the first while of use. 
- 
-=Troubleshooting= 
- 
-* Help! My system won't boot! 
-** Make sure you put the memory DIMMs all the way in no gold pins showing. This one got me. 
-** If the new SATA drive is 3.0Gb/s capable but the old was a 1.5Gb/s, you may have to explicitly set the new drive jumper to 1.5Gb/s mode. Mine was set to this be default, but I've run into this issue using 3.5" SATA drives through my eSATA interface. The drives are fine via USB 2.0 interface, but eSATA is more direct and chip-set dependent. 
=References= =References=
Line 189: Line 126:
* [http://lifehacker.com/software/step-by-step/mirror-your-mac-on-a-bootable-external-drive-300384.php Step by Step Mirror Your Mac on a Bootable External Drive] * [http://lifehacker.com/software/step-by-step/mirror-your-mac-on-a-bootable-external-drive-300384.php Step by Step Mirror Your Mac on a Bootable External Drive]
* [http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Mac/ Fixit Guide - DIY PowerBook, MacBook and iBook Repair and Disassembly] * [http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Mac/ Fixit Guide - DIY PowerBook, MacBook and iBook Repair and Disassembly]
-** [http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Mac/MacBook-Pro-17-Inch-Core-Duo/Hard-Drive-Replacement/87/8/ MacBook Pro 7" Core Duo - Installing Hard Drive Replacement]+** [http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Mac/MacBook-Pro-17-Inch-Core-Duo/Hard-Drive-Replacement/87/8/ MacBook Pro 17" Core Duo - Installing Hard Drive Replacement]
* [http://www.hackszine.com/blog/archive/2006/10/how_to_write_a_hack_for_oreill.html How To Write a Hack for O'Reilly] * [http://www.hackszine.com/blog/archive/2006/10/how_to_write_a_hack_for_oreill.html How To Write a Hack for O'Reilly]
* [http://flickr.com/photos/aplumb/sets/72157602227299614/ MacBook Pro Hard Drive Upgrade (Flickr Photos)] * [http://flickr.com/photos/aplumb/sets/72157602227299614/ MacBook Pro Hard Drive Upgrade (Flickr Photos)]
-* [UpgradMacBookProHardDriveScratchpad]+=Deleted Material Scratch Pad=
 +* [[UpgradeMacBookProHardDriveScratchpad]]
 + 
--Started: [[User:AndrewPlumb|AndrewPlumb]] 14:52, 4 December 2007 (PST) --Started: [[User:AndrewPlumb|AndrewPlumb]] 14:52, 4 December 2007 (PST)
 +
 +[[Category:Project]] [[Category:MacOSXHack]]

Current revision

Contents

Upgrading a MacBook Pro's Hard Drive

Outline for Upgrading a MacBook Pro Hard Drive.

Rough Draft

  1. Why this hack is needed (story, build desire)
  2. Describe the relevant features
  3. Hack prerequisites
  4. Hack code/procedure
  5. Example of the Hack in action
  6. Brief summary (why the reader rocks!)
  7. If possible, Hack alternatives

Why this hack is needed

When you bought your current MacBook Pro, you maxed out the capacity and/or speed of the hard drive based on what was available at the time. A year later, you've just purchased the latest release of Apple Logic Pro and a full install barely fit. Bigger, faster hard drives are on the market now, but the current generations of laptops' internal storage weren't designed to be user-serviceable. You've replaced them dozens of times in desktop machines. A laptop can't be that difficult, can it?

The Relevant Features

Organization is key. Laptops are by definition, very compact and efficiently designed machines.

  • Don't lose any parts.
    • Every screw counts.
  • Use the right part in the right place.
    • If a screw was flush with a surface before you removed it, it should be flush when it goes back in.
  • Order and alignment matters.
    • Cables folded a certain way should go back folded the same way. Pinch nothing.
  • Tolerances are tight so parts don't fall out or apart during regular wear.
    • Some pressure is necessary during disassembly and reassembly.
  • Circuit boards and connectors are proportionally smaller than in a desktop.
    • Don't use too much pressure or you could crack a board and brick your machine.

Hack Prerequisites

Tools

  • A clean and static-electricity free work surface.
  • Screw drivers
    • Phillips 00 and/or 000 size
    • Torx T6 size
  • Digital Camera
    • Take lots of pictures, every step of the way.
  • Tray to receive screws
    • You don't want to loose any! Group them in the order you remove them. This will make it a lot easier to re-install them in reverse order.
    • Sticky surfaces help; try using double-sided tape
  • A steady hand.
  • Patience.
  • No fear.

Parts

  • A new 2.5" SATA hard drive matching or exceeding your current drive's specifications
    • Match the physical dimensions or find a thinner drive. A thicker drive may or may not fit.
  • (optional) Temporary SATA bridge interface to mount the new drive on the system to make a bootable image of your current system.
    • If you want to start from scratch, all you need are you Mac OS X install DVDs.
    • Copy of SuperDuper! software to create the new image.
  • Paper copy of iFixIt instructions closest matching your make and model.
    • Pen or pencil to mark up your copy if/when you encounter differences. Watch for things like different screw counts, types of screws used, etc.

Hack Procedure (Pictures Example)

Preparation

The Doctor Is In

  1. Clear your space.
  2. Set out your tools
  3. Set out your screw management system
  4. Get your digital camera ready
  5. Have your Installation DVD at the ready

Disassembly

  1. Remove the battery [1]
  2. Remove the RAM [2]
  3. Remove Bottom Screws
    1. Remove the Torx screws in the RAM compartment and the Phillips screws on the bottom [3]
    2. Remove the angled Phillips screws from the battery compartment [4]
  4. Remove Edge Screws
    1. Remove the Phillips screws from both the DVI side [5] and the Power Socket side [6]
    2. From the rear, remove the Phillips screws at each side of the LCD hinge. See [7] and [8]
  5. Flip the machine right-side up, open the LCD and carefully pry off the top keyboard module from around the edges.
    • Should look something like this [9]. Note the ribbon connector between the keyboard and the motherboard [10]
  6. Separate the ribbon connector [11] from the motherboard socket [12]
    • This is one of those parts that, at assembly time, you want to press it firmly back in place but not too hard or you risk cracking the motherboard.
  7. Locate the hard drive [13] and take note (and pictures) of how the cables are routed and taped in place.
    1. Slide out and un-tape the Bluetooth module next to the hard drive [14]
    2. Unscrew and remove the inner retaining bracket over the hard drive [15]
    3. Gently lift the hard drive out, then un-tape (possibly both sides [16]) and detach the SATA connector [17]

Prepare the new drive

  1. Note the knobs on the lifting edge [18] rubber
  2. Note the knobs on the hinge edge [19] are metal
  3. Swap the knobs from the old drive to the new [20]

Reassembly

  1. Attach the new drive to the SATA connector, reapply the tape and insert [21]
  2. Attach the drive retaining bracket [22]
  3. Insert the bluetooth module and reapply the tape [23]
  4. Re-attach the keyboard ribbon cable to the motherboard [24] and carefully close up the top.
  5. Reverse the order in which you removed screws.
    1. Rear of the LCD hinge
    2. Edge screws
    3. Battery compartment screws
    4. Screws inside RAM compartment
      • Note: When you re-insert the RAM, make sure they are pushed in all the way with none of gold pins showing. Here is an example of how not to do it [25]; your machine probably won't power on like this.
    5. Screws closing RAM compartment and remaining bottom screws
    6. Re-insert battery.

Power up your system

  1. If it doesn't turn on, check that you inserted the RAM properly.
    • Other things to check include the keyboard connector (you didn't flip the cable around, did you?) and the hard drive's SATA connector (pushed in all the way?).
  2. If all else fails, remove the new drive, re-insert the old drive and confirm that it still works.
    • If the old drive has a 1.5Gb/s SATA interface, check to see that the new drive is configured in 1.5Gb/s interface mode, not a newer 3.0Gb/s interface mode. See the detailed specifications for both drives at the manufacturer(s) website(s) for more information.
  3. Install from Mac OS X DVD
  4. Keep your old drive in a safe place
    • I still haven't dared erase mine. It never hurts to have a spare, just in case.

Summary

All it takes is a little time, organization and a steady hand to service those non-user-serviceable parts of your MacBook Pro.

Alternatives

  1. Make an identical, bootable copy of your current system on the new drive. [26] Then perform the drive transplant.
    • I used SuperDuper! (See LifeHacker Example)
    • I opted for speed and used the power adaptor from a Vantec CB-ISATAU2, a SATA-to-eSATA cable and a SIIG eSATA II 2-Port ExpressCard-M to power and transfer data. I probably could have used the CB-ISATAU2 by itself (data transfer via USB 2.0).
      • If you can find one, a 2.5" SATA-to-Firewire bridge will allow you to boot directly off "the other" drive to confirm that the new image works and/or that the old drive still works after the transplant. Hold down the option key while turning on the machine to select the external Firewire drive as the boot device.
    • Remember to change the new drive's name back to the old system's name or you may find many of your applications won't be able to find all their parts.
  2. Replace the DVD drive with something more current.
  3. Transplant your whole machine into a new Steampunk-inspired case.

References

Deleted Material Scratch Pad

--Started: AndrewPlumb 14:52, 4 December 2007 (PST)

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